The asymmetric jacket

Hey there!

You may remember me talking a few weeks months ago about sewing a jacket, biker style (I wrote “perfecto” which is how this style is called in French, and since then I realized it means something really different in English. Forget about the cigars, and let’s talk about jacket!). I finally made it! I finished it during the Thanksgiving holiday and have been wearing it since then, very proud of myself 🙂 It is by far the more advanced item I sewed.

IMGP9829Tada!

Yep yep yep! The fit is great, it looks good on me and it’s made of grey wool, just like I wanted! 🙂

Lucky me, about a week after I finished the muslin, the quilting store close to my home had an amazing sale. They sold an important stock of wool fabric they had in a warehouse(yes, it’s a quilting store with an amazing selection of quilting fabrics and sewing machines [ask Odile ;)] but they also have a small selection of apparel/fashion fabric of pretty good quality), 50% off or more. I came home with a lovely camel wool for the jacket ($20/yd instead of $40/yd), but also a beautiful Italian wool challis for an Anna dress (50% off too, and I think the original price was about $60/yd!!!). It was worth waiting! But the dowside of having such a beautiful and great quality fabric was analysis paralysis. I was so afraid to do a mistake and waste the wool that I thought a lot before cutting every piece of pattern! :S

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As for the pattern, I picked Burda pattern #116 from the March 2012 issue. You may already know that, I don’t like Burda. The fit is not great on me, the instructions are unbearable (too much text, no explanatory sketch), some unecessary details. And you need to add the seam allowance before to cut 😦 But to my own surprise, this time the fit was great, I picked the last size, a 42 while I am a 40. Still, I skiped most of the explanation. Since I wanted to be able to wear a sweater with the jacket (my Parcel sweater has been used as a reference), I did a few minor alterations:

  • I removed the front dart, because it was unecessary. I don’t need it. Unfortunately, I realized it too late and had to recut and resew the lining :S
  • The sleeves and the bodice are 0.5″ longer (almost the right length! :)),
  • No pocket. I was afraid putting my hands in the pockets would deform the wool,
  • I added ease to the lining. For this, I highly recommend you to read this from University of Kentucky. All these informations are unvaluable.

IMGP9841

The result is great, and I am very happy since I put a lot of effort in details and construction. Every seam is top-stitched (that was the only way to get wool seams lay flat), including the lining (made of cotton fabric and polyester for the sleeves). I added a piping to contrast with the lining. The sleeves slits are modified, they are closed with a fake lapel and buttons.

IMGP9809
All these details took me a lot of time, but one really drove me crazy: the 18″ detachable grey zipper. I looked everywhere in the Bay Area but couldn’t find anything in any store (well, apparently I forgot to check one place). I finally found the perfect zipper at Zipperstop (great service. A family business established in New York. The bill was hand-written, I haven’t seen that in a really long time).

This jacket is so nice to wear, I can wear sweaters, pants, skirts with it and it still look nice enough to go to work. I love love love this jacket. The only detail that bothers me is my bare neck but that’s just a good excuse to wear a scarf or to knit a cowl 🙂

IMGP9796One last picture to enjoy the details!

Happy Monday to all of you and thumbs up for Mister Hubby who took really good pictures today!

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7 Comments

  1. Nathalie Imbert

     /  December 20, 2013

    Belle veste et beau défi relevé avec brio!!

    Reply
  2. sylou29

     /  December 20, 2013

    bravo elle est superbe ! j’adooooore ! 🙂
    have a good day !

    Reply
  3. You look stunning!!!Congratulations:)

    Reply
  4. Du grand et beau travail pour un blouson vraiment réussi.
    J’aime ton tissu de doublure, et je confirme 🙂 pour la qualité de l’exposition des machines à coudre de ton magasin préféré.

    Reply

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